

Manu National Park
& Tambopata-Madidi Wilderness
Amazon Rainforest, Peru

Scarlet with red-and-green
macaws at the mineral-rich clay lick.
Photo: Rainforest Expeditions.
One of the world's most dazzling wildlife
spectacles...
When the morning sun clears the Amazon
tree line in southeastern Peru and strikes a gray-pink clay bank
on the upper Tambopata River, one of the world's most dazzling
wildlife spectacles is nearing its riotous peak. The steep bank
has become a pulsing, 130 foot high palette of red, blue, yellow
and green as more than a thousand parrots squabble over choice
perches to grab a beakful of clay, a vital but mysterious part
of their diet. More than a dozen parrot species will visit the
clay lick throughout the day, but this midmorning crush belongs
to the giants of the parrot world, the macaws.
-- Franz Lanting, Macaws:
Winged Rainbows, National Geographic, January, 1994
Nesting
macaws
Amazon Lodges
Clay licks, or "collpas" in
Quechua, are simply high concentration deposits of minerals that
are hard to come by in the rain forest. For parrots and macaws
they come in the form of river bank clay deposits, but mammals
sometimes gather around exposed soil in the ground, monkeys lick
tree trunks with sediments and butterflies flutter about beaches
where nutrient-rich liquids have evaporated. Clay licks are thus
a widespread and not so uncommon phenomenon in the rain forest.
Without a doubt the most popular wildlife
spectacle around Tambopata Research Center, and the one for which
Tambopata is the most famous, is the macaw clay lick, less then
300 meters from the lodge itself. This particular clay lick is
a huge, 50-meter tall cliff of reddish clay that extends for
about 500 meters along the west bank of the Tambopata River.
Although many clay licks are known to exist along the streams
and rivers of the Tambopata National Reserve, the one in Tambopata
is not only the largest known but also the only one where blue-and-yellow
macaws are known to descend to eat clay.
On many clear mornings of the year,
literally hundreds of parrots and macaws flock to the lick, putting
up what has been described by several well-traveled celebrities
that have witnessed it as one of the world's great wildlife spectacles.
Macaws and parrots not only come to
the clay lick to obtain the hard-to-find minerals that are only
present in high concentrations on the lick's soil. It is also
thought that parrots eat the clay to neutralize the effects of
toxic fruits and seeds that they eat. Finally, some scientists
hypothesize that macaws also socialize and exchange information
as they gather around the clay lick. Even though descending to
the ground exposes the birds to danger, hundreds of parrots do
it on most clear days, creating a racket that is audible hundreds
of feet away. As they congregate in the crowns of trees surrounding
the clay lick, the parrots spend hours at a time screeching,
squabbling, gurgling and purring at each other before they decide
to descend to eat the clay. Once they are on the lick itself,
they concentrate on grabbing choice spots from which to feast
on the clay. This is until they sense danger, usually in the
form of an eagle, at which point they will depart simultaneously
in a spectacular explosion of color and sound.
Six species of macaws and eleven species
of parrots, parakeets and parrotlets come to the clay lick at
Tambopata Research Center: red-and-green, blue-and-yellow, scarlet,
red-bellied, chestnut-fronted and blue-headed macaws; mealy and
yellow-crowned Amazons; blue-headed, orange-cheeked and white-bellied
parrots; dusky-headed, white-eyed, cobalt-winged and tui parakeets
and dusky-billed and Manu parrotlets.
The clay lick at Posada Amazonas is
smaller and is also located in areas where the forests have been
disturbed. Therefore, macaws are less common there. At Posada
Amazonas some of the parrots and parakeets are commonly seen,
but the macaws do not often descend, and if they do, they do
so in small numbers.

Blue-and-yellow macaws
with red-and-green macaws.
Photo: Rainforest Expeditions.
Observing macaws at the clay licks
In order to view the Tambopata Research
Center clay lick, it is necessary to cross the river at dawn
in one of our motorized canoes and find a good spot on the rocky
beach in front of the clay lick, on the bank opposite to TRC's.
There are three factors which influence the quality of the observation
of the clay lick activity: the probability of occurence, the
distance of observation and the diversity and abundance of each
species. Although the vast majority of our groups do see a degree
of clay lick activity, even three mornings at TRC do not guarantee
experiencing it, because parrots and macaws are very susceptible
to the weather and do not descend in rainy, cloudy, windy or
foggy days, or when an eagle is in the vicinity.
Depending on where the macaws descend
to eat clay and how wide the river is, the distance you will
see the clay lick activity can be as close as 50 meters or as
far as 300 meters. Usually, in the dry season, it is around 100
meters away, and in the rainy season, with the river swollen,
it is around 200.
Usually, hundreds of parrots and small
green macaws (red-bellied and chestnut-fronted) descend to eat
clay. It is also common to see about 20-40 large macaws on the
clay lick but not more than that, although it happens. During
the months of May and June, large macaws are not frequent visitors
of the clay lick, because their diets change, and these are the
months when large macaw activity at the clay lick is the scantest.
The largest concentrations of large macaws at the clay lick are
seen in August and September, when hundreds of them descend at
once. Nevertheless, as with everything in the rain forest, conditions
are highly variable and difficult to predict, and just like we
have had wonderful activity in certain days of May and June,
we have had no activity in certain days of August and September.
In order to view the clay lick at Posada
Amazonas, it is also necessary to cross the river. Being a much
steadier watercourse at this location, the distance from which
you see the clay lick varies little: it is usually around 200
meters. The species which visit the clay lick at Posada Amazonas
are also different: red-bellied and chestnut-fronted macaws,
mealy and yellow-crowned Amazons, blue-headed parrots and white-eyed
parakeets.
Lesser numbers of parrots descend at
Posada Amazonas, but they still gather in the hundreds. The large
macaws are also seen at the Posada Amazonas clay lick but uncommonly
and usually less than 10.

Young macaws, rescued
and later released into the wild.
Photo: Rainforest Expeditions.
Photographing macaws at clay licks
The macaw "clay lick" made
famous by photographer Franz Lanting in the January 1994 issue
of National Geographic has caused people to arrive at
Tambopata with very high photographic expectations. In reality,
to view macaws and parrots visiting the clay lick, you will be
located 100-200 meters away from the lick on the river bank.
Also, because the macaws find themselves in a vulnerable position
and exposed to attacks by predators, the visitors must stay in
a group and will not be allowed to move freely, to avoid disturbing
the activities at the lick. Even a 500mm lens will not be powerful
enough to achieve frame-filling photos. The best chance to photograph
macaws at close range will be at Tambopata Research Center, when
the "chicos" (hand-reared wild macaws from the TRC
project) will visit the lodge. Also, the photographer will have
a chance to photograph the macaws and parrots at a reasonable
distance during their flight to and from the trees across the
river to eat the clay. At Posada Amazonas, the viewing blind
is located closer (60-80 meters) to the small clay lick and will
give the photographers a chance for good images but, unfortunately,
mostly of parrots and small green macaws.
Suggested reading
A Field Guide to the Birds of Peru
by Dr. James Clements.
Source: Rainforest Expeditions.
© 2008
Inka's Empire Corporation, Luxury Peru Tours & Travel. All rights reserved.