Huffer & Dugger Tour

14 - 31 May 2005

 

Machu Picchu, as seen from Huayna Picchu.
Photo: Benjamin Klatsky.

 

... a rare palette of natural and historic wonders...

-- Kimberly Fay, LuxuryLink.com, January 2003

 

Land & Cruise Price (18 days/17 nights)

Imperial US$ 9,175 per person

Includes upgrade to the Inca Trail and the Royal Palm Hotel on Santa Cruz Island

The land and cruise price includes escorted transfers; private excursions with professional guides and chauffeurs on the mainland and semi-private excursions with a certified naturalist in the Galapagos Islands; entrance fees; indicated category of accommodations; specified meals, including full board while on the Inca Trail trek and Galapagos cruise; all transportation except air flights; and travel insurance for U.S. or Canadian residents through the age of 59 years. Over that age, there is a supplementary fee. International residents receive a 5% reimbursement to purchase such insurance in their home country. All prices are per person based on two people sharing a guest room.

MapHotels

 

Intra-Tour Air Flights & Fares

Air fares are in addition to the land and cruise price.

Lima - Cuzco - Lima, Lima - Quito, Quito - Galapagos - Quito: US$ 1,010

Lima

International arrival in Lima: 14 May, 10:33 pm, Delta 335, Record Locator Number: 5RNAF5

Saturday, 14 May: Flight to Lima. International arrival, reception and transfer to your hotel. Overnight in the Country Club Lima Hotel -- Gran Clase Suite.

Sunday, 15 May: Lima. Morning walking tour in the colonial quarter, visiting the Plaza de Armas and entering the Cathedral, San Francisco, San Pedro and Torre Tagle Palace. Buffet luncheon of traditional Peruvian cuisine at El Señorio de Sulco. Afternoon at the Larco Museum and the Museo Nacional de Arqueologia, Antropologia e Historia. Dine out at the extraordinary Huaca Pucllana restaurant. Overnight in the Country Club Lima Hotel -- Gran Clase Suite

Sacred Valley

Flight to Cuzco: 16 May, 7:00 am - 8:10 am, LP 021

Monday, 16 May: Lima - Cuzco - Sacred Valley (Chinchero - Maras - Moray). Transfer to the airport. Flight to Cuzco. Reception and drive to the Sacred Valley of the Incas. Visit to the Chinchero market and church. Private weaving demonstration. Continue to the ancient salt pans of Maras and the Moray archaeological site. Typical lunch in the patio of a country restaurant. Transfer to your hotel in the Sacred Valley. Dinner and overnight in the Hotel Pakaritampu -- Standard Room.

Tuesday, 17 May: Sacred Valley (Pisaq - Hacienda Huayoccari - Ollantaytambo). Hike in the Pisaq ruins. Afterward, a short visit to the Pisaq market. Typical lunch at Hacienda Huayoccari. Tour of the Ollantaytambo ruins. Return to your hotel. Dinner and overnight in the Hotel Pakaritampu -- Standard Room.

Cuzco

Wednesday, 18 May: Sacred Valley - Cuzco. Excursion to the nearby Inca monuments of Saqsaywaman, the Observatories (Laqo, Lanlakuyoq and Kusilluchayoq), Puka Pukara and Tambomachay. Continue to Cuzco. View pre-Inca and Inca art at the Museo de Arte Precolombino, with a typical lunch in the courtyard. Afternoon walking tour in the colonial quarter. Inca monuments include Huacaypata (Leisure Square), now dominated by the Spanish colonial Cathedral, the Stone of Twelve Angles, Ajlla Wasi (House of the Virgins of the Sun), the fine Inca walls of Inti Q'ijllo and Qorikancha (Temple of the Sun). Dinner at the Inka Grill. Overnight in the Orient-Express Hotel Monasterio -- Junior Suite

Inca Trail

Thursday, 19 May: Cuzco - Chilca - Llaqtapata. Drive through the Sacred Valley of the Incas to Chilca, our trailhead, at Kilometer 77 of the Cuzco-Machu Picchu railway. Forty-seven kilometers away, the fabled "Lost City of the Incas" lies hidden in the mist at the top of an Andean peak called Machu Picchu. Undulating trek to our campsite at the imposing sculpted terraces of Llaqtapata. Camp.

Friday, 20 May: Llaqtapata - Llulluchapampa. From Llaqtapata, the trail climbs gently into the mountains through the last inhabited village, Huayllabamba, and then more steeply past a rushing stream through enchanted woodland. We camp below mighty crags, looking eastward to the snowpeaks and valleys of the Huayanay massif. Camp.

Saturday, 21 May: Llulluchapampa - Phuyupatamarca. We climb to the first and highest pass, Warmiwañusca, 4,200 meters above sea level. Descending, we pick up an Inca stairway and ascend again past the small Inca site of Runkuracay. We reach the second pass, then descend to the ruins of Sayacmarca (Inaccessible Town), an intricate labyrinth of houses, plazas and water channels, perched precariously on a rocky spur overlooking the Aobamba Valley. At the third pass, we camp by pinnacles topped with Inca viewing platforms. Camp.

Sunday, 22 May: Phuyupatamarca - Wiñayhuayna - Machu Picchu. We explore the wondrous maze of Inca stone towers, fountains and stairways spilling down the mountainside at Phuyupatamarca, then begin a long descent. Finally, an Inca stairway leads us to Wiñayhuayna (Forever Young), the largest and most exquisite of the Inca Trail sites. In the afternoon, we follow the last stretch of trail. Suddenly, we cross the stone threshold of Intipunku (Sun Gate) and encounter an unforgettable sweep of natural beauty and human artistry -- the magical city of Machu Picchu. Dinner and overnight in the Orient-Express Sanctuary Lodge -- Suite. 98% OF THE MOON'S VISIBLE DISK IS ILLUMINATED TONIGHT.

Cuzco

Monday, 23 May: Machu Picchu - Vistadome - Cuzco. Ascending Machu Picchu for sunrise, we begin a day of both guided and individual exploration, visiting the best-known features of this astounding and mysterious Inca settlement. A sumptuous buffet luncheon will be served on the terrace of the Sanctuary Lodge. After a full-on experience of this glorious monument, we descend to the station and board the train. Evening arrival in Cuzco and transfer to your hotel. Dinner in the Restaurante Illariy. Overnight in the Orient-Express Hotel Monasterio -- Junior Suite. FULL MOON AT 3 PM THIS AFTERNOON.

Quito

Flight to Lima: 24 May, 8:05 am - 9:30 am, TA 008

Connection to Quito: 10:40 am - 12:55 pm, TA 029

Tuesday, 24 May: Cuzco - Lima - Quito, Ecuador. Transfer to the airport. Flight to Lima and connection to Quito. Reception and transfer to your hotel. Dinner at El Escondite de Cantuña, high up on a hill overlooking the colonial quarter. Overnight in the Patio Andaluz Hotel -- Suite.

Wednesday, 25 May: Quito. Morning walking tour in the colonial quarter, highlighted by La Plaza de la Independencia, the Cathedral, La Compañia de Jesús and La Iglesia de San Francisco. At the City Museum, see what daily life was like in colonial Quito. In contrast, La Casa Museo María Augusta Urrutia reveals the opulent lifestyle of the city's elite at the beginning of the Republican era. To complete your insight into the country's archaeology, history and cultures; investigate the Central Bank Museum. As you drive back to the historic district, La Basílica is a striking sight to behold. Continue to El Panecillo. Continue to El Panecillo. Return to your hotel. Dine on the fine nouvelle Ecuadorian cuisine of El Nispero. Overnight in the Patio Andaluz Hotel -- Suite.

Galapagos

Flight to San Cristobal, May 26, 9:30 am - 10:00 am, Aerogal 030

Thursday, 26 May: Quito - Galapagos Islands. Transfer to the airport. Flight to the Galapagos. Entrance into the National Park, reception and transfer to your yacht, the Millennium. Afternoon island landing and excursion with a naturalist. Back on board. Guides' briefing on the next day's activities. Overnight on the Millennium -- Suite.

Friday, Saturday & Sunday, 27 May, 28 May & 29 May: Galapagos Islands. Morning and afternoon island landings and excursions with a naturalist. Back on board. Guides' briefing on the next day's activities. Overnight on the Millennium -- Suite on 27 & 28 May. Overnight in the Hotel Orca -- Ocean View Room on 29 May.

Quito

Intra-tour air to Quito, May 30, 11:40 am - 4:15 pm, Aerogal 033

Monday, 30 May: Galapagos Islands - Quito. Morning excursion. Transfer to the airport. Flight to Quito. Reception and transfer to your hotel. Guided evening walk to El Theatrum for a farewell dinner. Stroll back on your own. Overnight in the Patio Andaluz Hotel -- Suite.

Home

International departure from Quito: 31 May, 10:15 am, American 966, Record Locator Number: IZCNHT

Tuesday, 31 May: Quito - Home. Transfer to the airport for your flight home.

 

 

Coral I and II yachts, Galapagos Islands.
Photo: Kleintours.

 

Machu Picchu and the Galapagos Islands!

 

In the imperial city of Cuzco, fabled Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley; you will experience the glory of the Inca Empire. Archaeological sites, museums, folklore, native markets, traditional cuisine and colonial architecture compose a cultural adventure to forever cherish. After discovering the Empire's archaeological treasures, you will explore one of its greatest ecological treasures on a cruise of the Galapagos Islands.

All international flights arrive in Lima, a five-century-old Spanish colonial city and home to the country's major museums. The next morning, enter the historic district's crown jewels. After a luncheon of French-Peruvian cuisine, spend the afternoon discovering the treasures of the Incas at the Museum of Archaeology and the Larco Museum.

A morning flight into the Andes takes you to Cuzco, the ancient capital, where you will have one day to explore its Inca and colonial monuments, two days in the "Lost City" of Machu Picchu, with a chance to hike a part of the Inca Trail, and one day for the reknowned archaeological sites and native markets of the Sacred Valley of the Incas. On one evening, you will enjoy a folkloric show of music and dance.

 

 

Typical 7-night itinerary, Galapagos Islands.
Map: Quasar Nautica.

 

Morning flight back to Lima and your connection to Quito. Upon your arrival, you will be escorted to Quito's newly restored Patio Andaluz Hotel, in the heart of the historic district. Stroll in the evening through the beautifully illuminated colonial quarter and savor nouvelle Mediterranean cuisine at El Theatrum. Walking the next morning along the cobblestone streets of Ecuador's capital, founded in 1534, through centuries-old parks and plazas to churches filled with gold; you will contemplate Gothic, baroque, Moorish and neo-classical art, all blended with the mestizo sentiment, and imagine you've gone back in time to the astonishing colonial world. A visit to the pre-Inca, Inca and colonial galleries of the Central Bank Museum completes your insight into the country's archaeology, history and cultures before you embark on a voyage to discover ecological treasures

A flight the next morning takes you from the peaks of the Andes to the Galapagos Islands. Cruising for five days aboard an intimate luxury yacht and making twice-daily landings with a naturalist, you will encounter the animals that inspired Charles Darwin's theory of the origin of species. On Bartolome Island, whose volcanic formations create a moonlike landscape you will never forget, hike among marine iguanas and lava lizards, and have the rare opporunity to snorkel among penguins, marine tortoises and white-tipped sharks. As you sail to other, distinct islands in this magnificent archipelago, you will see the adaptations of the wildlife to their differing environments that led Darwin to his idea of evolution by means of natural selection. Returning for your last night in Quito, you will bid farewell to the archaeological and ecological treasures of the Inca Empire.

 

What Luxury Link has to say about Machu Picchu & Galapagos Islands.

 

 

Archbishop's Palace and Lima Cathedral.
Photo: Bill Gass.

 

At ancient Peru's most exalted pilgrimage site, eroded adobe temples speak of the pre-Columbian cultures that flourished in the Lima valley, worshiping the earth god Pachacamac ("he who gives life to the universe"). When the Incas arrived, they respected the temples and religion of those people, allowing them to worship that god along with the Incas' own god, the Sun, for whom they erected a great stone temple on a cliff above the sea. When the Spaniards arrived, they destroyed the holiest place in their lust for gold but found that the only treasure it contained was spiritual.

The nearby city of Lima was founded by the conquistador Francisco Pizarro in 1535 and reached its grandest splendor in the 17th and 18th centuries, when it came to be the capital of the New World for a period of three centuries. The principal attractions are the colonial quarter and the archaeological museums, whose vast collections display gold, ceramic and textile masterpieces of Peru's ancient civilizations. The country's independence movement was led by Jose de San Martin of Argentina and Simon Bolivar of Venezuela. San Martin proclaimed Peruvian independence from Spain on July 28, 1821, marking the end of the colonial period and the beginning of the republican era.

 

Huaca de Huallamarca, Lima.
Photo: Mylene d'Auriol Stoessel.

 

Saturday, 14 May: Flight to Lima

International arrival in the five-century-old colonial city of Lima, "City of the Kings" and the capital of Peru. Reception and escorted transfer to your hotel in the garden district of San Isidro or Miraflores, high above the Pacific Ocean and home to the city's grand 19th century mansions. Overnight in the Country Club Lima Hotel.

 

 

Sipan necklace with gold and silver peanut motif.
Photo: Instituto Nacional de Cultura.

 

Sunday, 15 May: Lima

Breakfast. This morning, walk with your guide in the heart of the city, which preserves its Spanish colonial heritage of the 16th-18th centuries. It was Francisco Pizarro, the founder of Lima, who determined the area for the Plaza de Armas as well as the location of the structures around it. In the center of the plaza is a splendid bronze fountain of 1650. Around the plaza and originally dating back to the city's beginnings in 1535 are the Cathedral, destroyed in the earthquake of 1746 and rebuilt in 1758; the Archbishop's Palace, rebuilt in 1924; the Government Palace, rebuilt in 1937; and, surviving intact from the beginning, the 1535 Casa Aliaga, built by Don Jeronimo de Aliaga, a member of Pizarro's conquering forces and co-founder of the city.

Nearby are the 1638 Iglesia de San Pedro, the 1674 Convento de San Francisco and the gorgeous baroque stone doorway and carved-wood balconies of the 1735 Torre Tagle Palace, the city's best surviving example of secular colonial architecture. On your walking tour, enter the Cathedral, the Iglesia de San Pedro and the Convento de San Francisco, the most spectacular of Lima's colonial-era churches, with cloisters and interiors of Spanish tiles and Moorish-style, carved-wood ceilings, a fine museum of religious art, a 17th century library of twenty-thousand books, many dating from the first years of the city's founding, and catacombs begun in 1546. If not in use by the Foreign Ministry to receive visiting dignitaries, enter the Torre Tagle Palace.

Luncheon at L'Eau Vive Restaurant, which offers French-Peruvian cuisine in a colonial mansion opposite the Torre Tagle Palace. Operated by a French order of nuns, the proceeds go to the poor.

 

 

Mochica, 500 A.C.
Photo: Museo Larco, Lima, Peru.

Spend the afternoon at the Museum of Archaeology. The Museo Nacional de Arqueologia, Antropologia e Historia del Peru exhibits evidence of all ancient cultures of Peruvian civilization in a chronological and didactic way, the most interesting being the collections of Chavin, Paracas, Nazca, Mochica, Huari, Chimu and Inca. Masterpieces include the Raimondi Estele and the Tello Obelisco. Paintings, objects, documents and relics of the colony, emancipation, independence process and republican period are exhibited in the adjoining manor house, which was the residence of the viceroys Pezuela and La Serna and Peru's liberators Jose de San Martin and Simon Bolivar.

Afterward, visit the Larco Museum. The Museo Arqueolegico Rafael Larco Herrera, founded in 1926, is the world's largest private collection of pre-Columbian art; with an astonishing array of gold, silver, semi-precious stones and textiles. The collection's predominant strength is in Mochica ceramics, of which the erotic ones are the most famous. Their notariety ought not to obscure the fact that the museum presents a complete view of the cultural development of ancient Peru through a selection of its 45,000 pieces, housed in a colonial building of the 18th century. For a preview, see Inka's exclusive online exhibition, Art of the Ancient Peruvians, courtesy of the Museo Larco.

If you prefer, select a different destination: see descriptions of the archaeological museums. Return to your hotel. Dine out at the extraordinary Huaca Pucllana restaurant, located on the grounds of a 1,500-year-old adobe pyramid built by the original inhabitants of Lima. Overnight in the Country Club Lima Hotel.

 

 

Terraces of Pisaq, Sacred Valley of the Incas.
Photo: Mylene d'Auriol Stoessel.

 

But the favorite residence of the Incas was at Yucay, about four leagues distant from the capital. In this delicious valley, locked up within the friendly arms of the sierra, which sheltered it from the rude breezes of the east, and refreshed by gushing fountains and streams of running water, they built the most beautiful of their palaces. Here, when wearied with the dust and toil of the city, they loved to retreat, and solace themselves with the society of their favorite concubines, wandering amidst groves and airy gardens, that shed around their soft, intoxicating odors, and lulled the senses to voluptuous repose. Here, too, they loved to indulge in the luxury of their baths, replenished by streams of crystal water which were conducted through subterraneous silver channels into basins of gold. The spacious gardens were stocked with numerous varieties of plants and flowers that grew without effort in this temperate region of the tropics, while parterres of a more extraordinary kind were planted by their side, glowing with the various forms of vegetable life skilfully imitated in gold and silver! Among them the Indian corn, the most beautiful of American grains, is particularly commemorated, and the curious workmanship is noticed with which the golden ear was half disclosed amidst the broad leaves of silver, and the light tassel of the same material that floated gracefully from its top.

-- William H. Prescott, The History of the Conquest of Peru, 1847

 

 

Yucay Church, Sacred Valley of the Incas.
Photo: Mylene d'Auriol Stoessel.

 

Monday, 16 May: Lima - Cuzco - Sacred Valley (Chinchero - Maras - Moray)

Early transfer to the airport for the flight to Cuzco, the capital of the ancient Inca Empire, called Tawantinsuyo. The name of Cuzco is a Spanish version of the native word Q'osqo, which means the "Navel of the Universe". Arrival, reception and drive to the Sacred Valley of the Incas. On the way, visit the village of Chinchero, on the altiplano, or highlands, above Cuzco and the Sacred Valley. At an elevation of 12,340 feet, it rises against a superb Andean landscape, dominated by eternally snow-capped peaks. This late 15th century agricultural center maintains its Inca traditions, one being its composition of "ayllus", or groups of indigenous, related families that work communally in the cultivation of their fields.

Traditional weaving is preserved, in part, through the efforts of The Center for Traditional Textiles of Cusco, which has arranged a private demonstration by one of the finest weavers. Another tradition that traces it roots back to the Incas is the barter, or "trueque", market. In Chinchero, people still meet to trade good for goods, just as in ancient times, when money did not exist. The market, noted for its textiles, takes place in the main square, at the foot of an Inca wall. Such traditions are not unique to Chinchero; they still exist throughout the altiplano of Peru. The pueblo exhibits a peculiar Andean-Hispanic architectural style, and paintings by the famous native artist Chiwantito hang in a beautiful colonial church. The canvases are in the Cuzqueña style, dating back to the early Spanish period.

Nearby, below the colonial town of Maras, are age-old, terraced salt mines. Afterward, visit the impressive archaeological site of Moray. These circular agricultural terraces were built by the Incas in natural sinkholes on a limestone plateau overlooking the Sacred Valley and may have had cosmological as well as agricultural function. Lunch of typical cuisine in the patio of a country restaurant. Arrival at your hotel. Dinner and overnight in the Sol y Luna Lodge.

 

 

Pisaq.
Photo: Yutaka Yoshii.

 

Tuesday, 17 May: Sacred Valley (Pisaq - Hacienda Huayoccari - Ollantaytambo)

Breakfast. Private car this morning to the Pisaq ruins. High on a mountain above the valley and the Urubamba River, tower the imposing ruins of an ancient settlement. Known as the Pisaq archaeological complex, it takes up the entire mountain and is made up of different neighborhoods, or squares, the main one being Intihuatana, which is admired for the architectural skill of its constructions. Its central feature is a monumental solar calendar on a promontory from which there are spectacular outlooks. At the same time, the pre-Hispanic cemetery is of great interest, as it is the largest found in this part of the continent, containing thousands of tombs, some of them looted. The complex is also famous for the colossal terraces that circle the mountains and the fabulous watchtowers, which were used as observation points as well as for control and military defense.

 

 

Varayoc, or village leader, Pisaq.
Photo: Bill Gass

 

Far below, in the colonial town of Pisaq, a popular handicraft fair take place under the main square's century-old tree, with wares displayed on vividly patterned and colored textiles. On Sundays, the traditional mass is held in Quechua, the Inca language, at the local church, which is attended by the village leaders from the surrounding communities. They wear their typical costumes and carry their traditional scepter of authority, or vara, that gives origin to their name of Varayoc.

 

 

Ancient pisonay tree, Hacienda Huayoccari.
Photo: Hacienda Huayoccari.

 

The Lambarri-Orihuela family, inhabitants of the Sacred Valley for over 350 years, are your hosts at their Hacienda Huayoccari, where you will experience their warmth, together with a flavor of the past, the history of the haciendas of Cuzco, and an impressive view of the Sacred Valley from beneath the shade of an ancient pisonay tree. After admiring the family's vast collection of folk art, savor a traditional meal prepared with fresh produce from the plantation and served in the garden.

 

 

Fortress of Ollantaytambo, Sacred Valley of the Incas.
Photo: Mylene d'Auriol Stoessel.

 

Continue to the Ollantaytambo archeological site, a gigantic agricultural, administrative, social, religious and military center in the era of Tawantinsuyo. The Spaniards called it the Fortress of Ollantaytambo. The architectural style of its streets and squares reflects Inca town planning, with enormous polyhedral stones forming the walls and trapezoidal doorways of temples and palaces set along rectilinear and narrow streets, which have been inhabited continuously since Inca times.

Above the city, a mountain rises which houses innumerable Inca constructions, such as magnificently-crafted temples and terraces. One striking construction is the partially-destroyed main temple, believed to be the temple of the Sun, whose carved-stone facade is made up of six perfectly-sculpted, red monoliths. The mountainside on which this enormous fortress is built is strategic: it dominates three valleys that come together at this point. Across one valley, tremendous blocks of stone lie abandoned along the route from the quarry site to Ollantaytambo, their uncompleted journey marking the arrival of the "Conquistadores". According to a legend that inspired the Quechua drama Apu-Ollanta, the fortress belonged to a powerful lord who fell in love with Princess Cusi Coillor, daughter of Inca Pachakuteq. It later served Manco Inca after his defeat by the Spaniards at Saqsaywaman. Return to your hotel. Dinner and overnight in the Sol y Luna Lodge.

 

 

Temple and fortress of Saqsaywaman, Cuzco.
Photo: Mylene d'Auriol Stoessel.

 

Wednesday, 18 May: Sacred Valley - Cuzco

Breakfast. Morning drive with private car and guide to the fortress and temple of Saqsaywaman. To truly appreciate Saqsaywaman, one must realize that what may now be seen is only the base of a colossal construction of a series of three successively-higher, defensive structures made from enormous blocks of stone, joined together with great precision.

 

Inside this triple enclosure, three tall towers were erected on a large narrow ground. The largest of them was called Mayac Marca, which means the round tower. It was built over a clear, abundant spring, fed by underground canalizations, concerning which nobody knew from where or how they came... This round tower contained rooms with gold and silver paneled walls, on which animals, birds, and plants figured in relief, as though in a tapestry. It was here that the king lived when he came for a rest in the fortress...

The two other towers, which were round, not square, in shape, were called Paucar Marca and Sacllac Marca, and were used to house soldiers of the garrison, which was composed only of Incas by privilege, ordinary men, even combatants, not being allowed inside this fortress, which was the house of the Sun, both its arsenal and its temple...

An underground network of passages, which was as vast as the towers themselves, connected them with one another. This was composed of a quantity of streets and alleyways which ran in every direction, and so many doors, all of them identical, that the most experienced men dared not venture into this labyrinth without a guide, consisting of a long thread tied to the first door, which unwound as they advanced....

It would have been in the interest of the Spaniards to maintain this fortress, and even to repair it at their own expense, because, quite alone, it gave proof of the grandeur of their victory and would have served as a witness to it for all eternity. And yet, not only did they not keep it up, but they hastened its ruin, demolishing its hewn stones, in order to construct their own Cuzco homes at less cost.

They made their portals and thresholds with the big flat stones that formed the ceilings, and to make their stairways, they did not hesitate to tear down entire walls, provided they were based on a few stones that could be used for steps.

And so, that is how the Spaniards destroyed the Cuzco fortress.

-- Garcilaso de la Vega, The Royal Commentaries of the Inca, 1609

 

 

Campesina at Saqsaywaman, Cuzco.
Photo: Mylene d'Auriol Stoessel.

 

Saqsaywaman was considered a fortress by the Spaniards, since it was a place of defense, weapons and war. It was considered the House of the Sun by the Incas because, at the same time, it was a place of worship and sacrifice. Notably, it was the site of the most important ceremony of the empire, Inti Raymi, the festival of the Sun. Its name means "Satiated Hawk" and it was built in approximately 77 years (1431-1508), during the reign of Inca Yupanqui and Wayna Qhapaj. It began being destroyed from 1537 until 1561, becoming the base for the building of the Spanish Cathedral, churches and homes. "Neither the bridge of Segovia, nor the buildings built by Hercules or the Romans, are so worthy of being admired, as this" says the Spanish chronicler and soldier Pedro Sancho de la Hoz, who saw Inca Cuzco intact, along with Pizarro in 1533.

 

 

Ritual fountains of Tambomachay, Cuzco.
Photo: Mylene d'Auriol Stoessel.

 

Further up the hill are the Observatories (Laqo, Lanlakuyoq and Kusilluchayoq); one of the few sites preserving its sculptures of pumas, serpents, condors, llamas and female genitalia, carved into the stone. It is located in a rocky outcropping with natural caves that have been sculpted to a minor extent to create ceremonial platforms and symbols, such as an immense snake. The site is in a singularly beautiful landscape and overlooks the Valley of Cuzco. In contrast to these observatories, the animal sculptures at Q'enqo (labyrinth), a religious sanctuary devoted to fertility, were obliterated by the Spaniards.

Puka Pukara (red fortress) is located at a strategic point along the road to Antisuyo (the jungle quarter of the Inca Empire). It served as a checkpoint and was a military and administrative center. The Inca's retinue received food and lodging here when he stopped at nearby Tambomachay, on his way to the Sacred Valley. Tambomachay is believed to have been dedicated to the worship of water and its aqueducts are fed by springs all year long. The site includes a liturgical fountain and three terraces with structures made from polyhedral blocks of stone, joined without mortar. The setting is bucolic and the spring water is cold, pure and delicious. After drinking of it and making your devotions, continue to Cuzco.

 

 

The Stone of Twelve Angles, Cuzco.
Photo: Mylene d'Auriol Stoessel.

 

At the Museo de Arte Precolombino, you will see 450 pre-Inca and Inca masterpieces dating from 1250 B.C. to 1532 A.D. Lunch of typical cuisine in the museum's courtyard. Afternoon walking tour of the imperial city of the Incas to their ancient monuments of Huacaypata (Leisure Square); the Stone of Twelve Angles; the Ajlla Wasi (the House of the Virgins of the Sun); the fine Inca walls of Inti Q'ijllo; and the Qorikancha (the Temple of the Sun). All of these constructions date from the era of 1440 A.D., when Inca Pachakuteq, desiring a capital befitting his great empire, pulled down the adobe city and rebuilt Cuzco in stone.

The Inca palaces were in the form of "canchas", or enclosures, formed by massive stone walls with living quarters, temples and courtyards within. Throughout Cuzco, you will see the Inca walls, built upon by the Spaniards in colonial style. The Cathedral was built over the Inca Wiracocha's palace. The Palacio del Arzobispo, or Archbishop's Palace, was erected in the 16th century in an Arabesque style on the walls of Hatunrumiyoc, the palace of Inca Sinchi Roca, which contains the Stone of Twelve Angles. The Church of Santo Domingo (begun in 1534), was built over Qorikancha, the most important religious structure in the Inca Empire. When the earthquake of 1950 collapsed much of the superimposed colonial architecture, it revealed the ancient temples of the Sun, the Moon, the Stars, Thunder and Lightning, and the Rainbow.

Tonight, typical cuisine and folk music at the Inka Grill, on the lively Plaza de Armas, where all roads of the Inca Empire led. Overnight in the Orient-Express Hotel Monasterio.

 

The interior of the temple was the most worthy of admiration. It was literally a mine of gold. On the western wall was emblazoned a representation of the deity, consisting of a human countenance, looking forth from amidst innumerable rays of light, which emanated from it in every direction, in the same manner as the sun is often personified with us. The figure was engraved on a massive plate of gold of enormous dimensions, thickly powdered with emeralds and precious stones. It was so situated in front of the great eastern portal, that the rays of the morning sun fell directly upon it at its rising, lighting up the whole apartment with an effulgence that seemed more than natural, and which was reflected back from the golden ornaments with which the walls and ceiling were everywhere incrusted. Gold, in the figurative language of the people, was "the tears wept by the sun," and every part of the interior of the temple glowed with burnished plates and studs of the precious metal. The cornices, which surrounded the walls of the sanctuary, were of the same costly material; and a broad belt or frieze of gold, let into the stonework, encompassed the whole exterior of the edifice.

Adjoining the principal structure were several chapels of smaller dimensions. One of them was consecrated to the Moon, the deity held next in reverence, as the mother of the Incas. Her effigy was delineated in the same manner as that of the Sun, on a vast plate that nearly covered one side of the apartment. But this plate, as well as all the decorations of the building, was of silver, as suited to the pale, silvery light of the beautiful planet. There were three other chapels, one of which was dedicated to the host of Stars, who formed the bright court of the Sister of the Sun; another was consecrated to his dread ministers of vengeance, the Thunder and the Lightning; and a third, to the Rainbow, whose many-colored arch spanned the walls of the edifice with hues almost as radiant as its own...

All the plate, the ornaments, the utensils of every description, appropriated to the uses of religion, were of gold or silver. Twelve immense vases of the latter metal stood on the floor of the great saloon, filled with grain of the Indian corn; the censers for the perfumes, the ewers which held the water for sacrifice, the pipes which conducted it through subterraneous channels into the buildings, the reservoirs that received it, even the agricultural implements used in the gardens of the temple, were all of the same rich materials. The gardens, like those described, belonging to the royal palaces, sparkled with flowers of gold and silver, and various imitations of the vegetable kingdom. Animals, also, were to be found there --among which the llama, with its golden fleece, was most conspicuous-- executed in the same style, and with a degree of skill, which, in this instance, probably, did not surpass the excellence of the material.

-- William H. Prescott, The History of the Conquest of Peru, 1847

 

 

Qorikancha, the Temple of the Sun, Cuzco.
Photo: Mylene d'Auriol Stoessel.

 

In the time of the Incas, this garden... was entirely made of gold and silver; and there were similar gardens about all the royal mansions. Here could be seen all sorts of plants, flowers, trees, animals, both small and large, wild and tame, tiny, crawling creatures such as snakes, lizards, and snails, as well as butterflies and birds of every size; each one of these marvels being placed at the spot that best suited the nature of what it represented.

There were a tall corn stalk and another stalk from the grain they call quinoa, as well as other vegetables and fruit trees, the fruits of which were all very faithfully reproduced in gold and silver. There were also, in the house of the Sun, as well as in that of the king, piles of wool made of gold and silver, and large statues of men, women, and children made of the same materials, in addition to storerooms and recipients for storing the grain they called pirua, all of which, together, tended to lend greater splendor and majesty to the house of their god the Sun.

All of these valuable works were made by the goldsmiths attached to the Temple, from the tribute of gold and silver that arrived every year from all the provinces of the Empire, and which was so great that the most modest utensils used in the temple, such as pots and pans, or pitchers, were also made of precious metals. For this reason, the temple and its service quarters were called Coricancha, which means the place of gold.

-- Garcilaso de la Vega, The Royal Commentaries of the Inca, 1609

 

 

Inca bridge over the Apurimac River.
Photo: Janie and Ric Finch, Rutahsa Adventures.

 

Thursday, 19 May: Cuzco or Ollantaytambo - Chilca - Llaqtapata

A spectacular drive through the Sacred Valley of the Incas takes us to Chilca, our trailhead, at Kilometer 77 of the Cuzco-Machu Picchu railway. Forty-seven kilometers away, the fabled "Lost City of the Incas" lies hidden in the mist at the top of an Andean peak called Machu Picchu. Crossing a footbridge, we take an undulating trek through a dry cactus zone beneath soaring views to the snows of Mt. Verónica, with the turbulent Urubamba River on our right. We reach our campsite at the imposing sculpted terraces of Llaqtapata, and explore further downstream to the outlying areas of this massive, ancient farming complex. Camp.

 

 

Crossing the Huayllabamba River, on the Inca Trail.
Photo: PromPeru.

 

Friday, 20 May: Llaqtapata - Llulluchapampa

From Llaqtapata, the trail climbs gently into the mountains through the last inhabited village, Huayllabamba, and then more steeply past a rushing stream through enchanted native polylepis woodland. Along the way, we find Inca tombs, aqueducts, terraces and roads. Crossing the rim of a small plateau, we abruptly find ourselves in the puna, the treeless grasslands of the high Andes. We camp below mighty crags at Llulluchapampa, looking eastward to the snowpeaks and valleys of the Huayanay massif. Camp.

 

 

Descent toward Intipunku and Machu Picchu.
Photo: Alejandro Balaguer, Rumbos Magazine.

 

Saturday, 21 May: Llulluchapampa - Phuyupatamarca

We climb to the first and highest pass, Warmiwañusca, 4,200 meters above sea level, with spectacular views of the trail ahead to the second pass. Descending to the forested Pacamayo Valley, we pick up an Inca stairway and ascend again past the small Inca site of Runkuracay. We reach the second pass, where the landscape opens onto spectacular new views to the snowpeaks of the Pumasillo range, then descend to the ruins of Sayacmarca (Inaccessible Town), an intricate labyrinth of houses, plazas and water channels, perched precariously on a rocky spur overlooking the Aobamba Valley. The Inca Trail, now a massive buttressed structure of granite paving stones, continues along the steep upper fringes of the cloud forest through a colorful riot of orchids, bromeliads, mosses and ferns. At the third pass, we camp by pinnacles topped with Inca viewing platforms overlooking the archaeological complex of Phuyupatamarca (Town at the Level of the Clouds). Camp.

 

 

Citadel of Machu Picchu and the canyon of the Urubamba River.
Photo: PromPeru Archive.

 

Sunday, 22 May: Phuyupatamarca - Wiñayhuayna - Machu Picchu

We explore the wondrous maze of Inca stone towers, fountains and stairways spilling down the mountainside at Phuyupatamarca, then begin a long descent through ever-changing layers of cloud forest. Finally, an Inca stairway partly cut from living granite leads us to the site of Wiñayhuayna (Forever Young), the largest and most exquisite of the Inca Trail sites. In the afternoon, we follow the last stretch of trail across a steep mountainside, through a lush, humid cloud forest of giant ferns and broad-leafed vegetation. Suddenly, we cross the stone threshold of Intipunku (Sun Gate) and encounter an unforgettable sweep of natural beauty and human artistry -- a backdrop of twisting gorge and forested peaks framing the magical city of Machu Picchu.

We walk the last half-hour or so down the royal flagstone trail, past outlying shrines and buildings, and through the heart of the citadel, before staying overnight in the Sanctuary Lodge. From its terrace and nearby lookouts, we'll be able to see the surrounding mountains, the sunset and the southern constellations from high above the canyon of the Urubamaba River. Enter the ruins in moonlight, when Machu Picchu casts its most enchanting spell. Dinner and overnight in the Orient-Express Sanctuary Lodge.

 

 

Terraces, Machu Picchu.
Photo: Mylene d'Auriol Stoessel.

 

The temples and royal chambers, throughout the Empire, were lined with gold, and, in preparing the stone, they left niches and empty spaces in which to put all sorts of human or animal figures: birds, or wild beasts, such as tigers, bears, lions, wolves, dogs and wildcats, deer, guanacos, vicuñas and even domestic ewes, all of which were made of gold and silver....

Imitation of nature was so consummate that they even reproduced the leaves and little plants that grow on walls; they also scattered here and there, gold or silver lizards, butterflies, mice and snakes, which were so well made and so cunningly placed, that one had the impression of seeing them run about in all directions....

In all the royal mansions there were gardens and orchards given over to the Inca's moments of relaxation. Here were planted the finest trees and the most beautiful flowers and sweet-smelling herbs in the kingdom, while quantities of others were reproduced in gold and silver, at every stage of their growth, from the sprout that hardly shows above the earth, to the full-blown plant, in complete maturity. There were also fields of corn with silver stalks and gold ears, on which the leaves, grains, and even the corn silk were shown.

In addition to all this, there were all kinds of gold and silver animals in these gardens, such as rabbits, mice, lizards, snakes, butterflies, foxes, and wildcats... Then there were birds set in the trees, as though they were about to sing, and others bent over the flowers, breathing in their nectar. There were roe deer and deer, lions and tigers, all the animals in creation, in fact, each placed just where it should be.

-- Garcilaso de la Vega, The Royal Commentaries of the Inca, 1609

 

 

Intihuatana (hitching post of the Sun), or solar calendar, Machu Picchu.
Photo: PromPeru Archive.

 

Monday, 23 May: Machu Picchu - Vistadome - Cuzco

Breakfast. Ascending Machu Picchu for sunrise, we begin a day of both guided and individual exploration, visiting the best-known features of this astounding and mysterious Inca settlement. One memorable possibility is the steep trail to the top of Huayna Picchu (Young Peak). Other trails lead to the Temple of the Moon, the Inca Bridge or Machu Picchu's multitude of hidden nooks and crannies. Lunch in the hotel's restaurant. After a full-on experience of this glorious monument to the Inca achievement, we descend to the station and board the train. Evening arrival in Cuzco and transfer to your hotel. Dinner and overnight in the Orient-Express Hotel Monasterio.

 

 

Colonial Quito with El Panecillo in the distance.
Photo: Dan Heller.

 

Tuesday, 24 May: Cuzco - Lima - Quito

Breakfast. Early transfer to the airport for the flight to Lima. Arrival in the five-century-old colonial "City of the Kings" and the capital of Peru. Reception and assistance in making the connection to your flight to Quito. Arrival, reception and transfer to the newly restored Patio Andaluz Hotel, in the heart of the historic district. Dinner and a panoramic view of the city at El Escondite de Cantuña, high up on a hill overlooking the colonial quarter. Overnight in the Patio Andaluz Hotel.

 

 

Galapagos-inspired gargoyles, La Basílica, Quito.
Photo: David Bate.

Wednesday, 25 May: Quito

Breakfast. Quito, the capital of Ecuador and a world heritage site, is located at an elevation of over 9,000 feet, in the Andes mountains. Founded by Spaniards in 1534, it is one of the oldest cities in South America and has the largest colonial quarter. Walking along its cobblestone streets through centuries-old parks and plazas to churches filled with gold; you will imagine you've gone back in time to that astonishing world. La Iglesia y Convento de San Agustin (begun in 1583) was so rich in its decoration with that precious metal that it was once called El Convento de Oro (the Gold Convent). La Basílica, though not of colonial vintage, is the place to see bizarre and fascinating gargoyles in the form of giant tortoises, iguanas, anteaters, monkeys, pumas, condors and other Ecuadorian fauna. The 17th century El Sagrario is a pastiche of Gothic, baroque, Moorish and neo-classical architectural styles, all blended with the mestizo sentiment. La Compañia de Jesús (begun in 1605) is one of the great baroque masterpieces in South America. The oldest of Quito's and the continent's colonial churches is the baroque La Iglesia de San Francisco (begun in 1535). It was constructed over an Inca temple and decorated with images of the sun to lure in the native people to their conquerors' religion.

Afternoon drive in private car to the Middle of the World Monument, marking the Equator, and its ethnographic museum. Following lunch at El Crater, on the rim of a volcano, investigate Ecuador's ancient past in the pre-Inca, Inca and colonial galleries of the Central Bank Museum, completing your insight into the country's archaeology, history and cultures. Return to your hotel. In the evening, dine on nouvelle Ecuadorian cuisine at El Nispero, located in a charming old home. Overnight in the Patio Andaluz Hotel.

 

 

Land iguana under a giant prickly-pear cactus, Galapagos Islands.
Photo: Bonnie Pelnar.

 

... we seem to be brought somewhat near to that great fact

-- that mystery of mysteries --

the first appearance of new beings on this earth.

 

The natural history of these islands is eminently curious, and well deserves attention. Most of the organic productions are aboriginal creations, found nowhere else; there is even a difference between the inhabitants of the different islands; yet all show a marked relationship with those of America, though separated from that continent by an open space of ocean, between 500 and 600 miles in width. The archipelago is a little world within itself, or rather a satellite attached to America, whence it has derived a few stray colonists, and has received the general character of its indigenous productions. Considering the small size of the islands, we feel the more astonished at the number of their aboriginal beings, and at their confined range. Seeing every height crowned with its crater, and the boundaries of most of the lava-streams still distinct, we are led to believe that within a period geologically recent the unbroken ocean was here spread out. Hence, both in space and time, we seem to be brought somewhat near to that great fact -- that mystery of mysteries -- the first appearance of new beings on this earth.

-- Charles Darwin, Voyage of the Beagle, 1845

 

 

Magnificent frigate bird displaying, Galapagos Islands.
Photo: Marco Robalino.

From so simple a beginning

endless forms most beautiful and most wonderful

have been, and are being evolved...

 

Thus, from the war of nature, from famine and death, the most exalted object which we are capable of conceiving, namely, the production of higher animals, directly follows. There is grandeur in this view of life, with its several powers, having been originally breathed by the Creator into a few forms or into one; and that, whilst this planet has gone cycling on according to the fixed law of gravity, from so simple a beginning endless forms most beautiful and most wonderful have been, and are being evolved.

-- Charles Darwin, On the Origin of Species by Means of Natural Selection, 1859

 

 

Sea turtle, Galapagos Islands.
Photo: Bonnie Pelnar.

Thursday: Quito - Galapagos Cruise (San Cristobal Island - Isla Lobos)

Breakfast. Early morning transfer to the airport for the flight to San Cristobal Island (558 sq. km.), the fifth largest in the archipelago, site of the capital, Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, and home to the National Park's San Cristobal Interpretation Center. Fauna include blue, red and masked boobies, frigate birds, sea lions, storm petrels and swallow-tailed gulls. Flora include palo santo. Arrival, reception and transfer south to your yacht. Briefing on the ship and the Galapagos Islands by your guides and staff of the Galapagos National Park. Excursion to the San Cristobal Highlands.

(Sea Lion Island) is a small rocky islet, separated from San Cristobal by a narrow stretch of rough waters. After a wet landing, you can swim, snorkel and hike on one of the trails where lava lizards are often seen. Fauna include red and blue-footed boobies, frigate birds and sea lions. Flora include candelabra cactus, palo santo and saltbrush.

Leon Dormido (Sleeping Lion), or Kicker Rock, is an eroded tuff cone that lies northeast of San Cristobal. This barren island's fauna include blue and masked boobies, frigate birds, tropic birds and sea lions. Overnight on the Millennium.

 

 

Baby huey chick, Galapagos Islands.
Photo: David Bate.

Friday: Galapagos Cruise (Santa Fe Island, North Plaza Island & South Plaza Island)

Santa Fe Island (24 sq. km.) is small and located in the southeastern part of the Galapagos. It is home to a number of endemic species which have bounced back from outside threats. These include the Galapagos hawk, land iguana, a variety of Darwin's finches and the Galapagos mockingbird, sea lion and marine turtle. Another attraction is one of the most beautiful coves in all of the Galapagos, where you can swim and snorkel with sea lions. Santa Fe was formed from a seismic uplift (rather than volcanoic activity), giving the island a relatively flat surface, rather than the typical conical shape. One trail leads out along the coast into the Opunia forest, whose giant prickly-pear cactus trees are the largest in the Galapagos. The other trail leads into the highlands, where the land iguana may be seen.

 

 

Red-footed booby, Galapagos Islands.
Photo: David Bate.

 

North Plaza Island & South Plaza Island (.13 sq. km. combined). These two small uplifted islands are just off the east coast of Santa Cruz. You will enjoy a view of both islands, but land only on the southern one. After a wet landing, you can hike the short trail to observe the endemic flora, such as bitterbush, giant prickly-pear cactus and sesuvian. Despite its small size, some of the most interesting species are here, such as boobies, frigate birds, land iguanas, often hiding in the shade of the cacti, and tropic birds. The Plazas have the largest colony of sea lions in the archipelago. Overnight on the Millennium.

 

 

Sea lions, Galapagos Islands.
Photo: David Bate.

 

Saturday: Galapagos Cruise (Española Island)

Española Island (61 sq. km.) is medium in size and the most southerly. More outlying, it has been able to preserve a high portion of its endemic fauna. Aside from the sea lion colonies, this is one of the most important bird-watching sites. It is unique among the islands in having the only colony of waved albatrosses, which is also the world's largest colony. It has a beautiful white beach, the well-known blowhole and one of the most impressive and varied seabird colonies of the Galapagos.

 

 

Marine iguana and lava lizard, Galapagos Islands.
Photo: Kleintours.

 

After a dry landing at Suarez Point, you will learn more about the lava terrain while crossing the inactive lava fields. As soon as you step foot on this island, many species can be spotted close up, such as a large colony of marine iguanas, lava lizards and the colorful Sally light-foot crabs. After a short trek, you will encounter colonies of masked and blue-footed boobies, whose nesting grounds sometimes overlap the trail. You will also find giant frigate birds, red-billed tropic birds and swallow-tailed gulls. After crossing the nesting grounds, you reach the colony of about 15,000 waved albatrosses (April to November). Their mating rituals are a highlight of our visit. Nearing the end of this excursion, you will visit the famous blowhole, where water shoots into the air to almost 23 meters (75 feet).

 

 

Yellow warbler, Galapagos Islands.
Photo: David Bate.

Make a wet landing on a white-coral beach on Gardner Bay, amidst a large colony of sea lions. This site has no trails, therefore no hiking, but from this open area you can spot Galapagos hawks, American oyster catchers, Galapagos doves, hood mockingbirds, large cactus ground finches, yellow warblers, lava lizards and marine iguanas. This is a excellent place for swimming and snorkeling -- the best spot is by the rock outcropping that looks like a turtle. Often snorkelers see many of the Galapagos' marine species, such as king angel fish, creole fish, damsel fish, parrot fish, manta rays, white-tipped reef sharks and many more. Overnight on the Millennium.

Marine iguana, Galapagos Islands.
Photo: Marco Robalino.

Sunday: Galapagos Cruise (Santa Cruz Island)

Santa Cruz Island (986 sq. km.) is the second largest in the archipelago and the most populated. Home to the Charles Darwin Research Station, it has many trails, beaches and places for snorkeling. Flora include cacti, salt bushes and mangroves. Fauna include several of the 11 remaining subspecies of giant tortoises, marine iguanas, sharks and various species of waterbirds and landbirds, such as vermillion flycatchers and Darwin's finches. After a wet landing, we'll walk behind the beach to a hypersalinic lagoon, where observers report high numbers of pink flamingos. The trail then leads up to Dragon Hill, which offers a view of the bay. This area is a nesting site for land iguanas, reintroduced by the Research Station, as was the forest of Scalesia, or daisy trees, believed extinct until five plants were discovered in a crater on Santiago Island in 1995.

Giant tortoise, Galapagos Islands.
Photo: David Bate.

 

Morning visit to the Charles Darwin Research Station, staffed with international scientists conducting biological research and conservation projects. Here, you can admire giant tortoises, part of the program to breed, rear and reintroduce different subspecies of tortoises back into their natural habitat. Surrounding the station is an impressive giant prickly-pear cactus forest with many land birds. Afterward, some free time to walk around the town of Puerto Ayora.

Afternoon excursion to the Santa Cruz Highlands, where you will observe Los Gemelos, twin volcanic craters, and Cerro Chato. Chances are good for sighting the famous giant tortoises that gave these islands their name. Additionally, you can walk inside the dormant lava tubes. Overnight in the Royal Palm Hotel -- Veranda Studio.

 

 

Giant tortoise, Galapagos Islands.
Photo: David Bate.

More about the distinct islands of the Galapagos

 

Monday, 30 May: Santa Cruz Island - San Cristobal Island - Quito

Breakfast. Morning excursion with your guide. Transfer to the San Cristobal Island airport for the flight to Quito. Arrival, reception and transfer to your hotel. This evening, take a guided walk in the beautifully illuminated colonial quarter to El Theatrum to savor nouvelle Mediterranean cuisine and bid farewell to the cultural heritage and natural splendors of Ecuador. Stroll back on your own. Overnight in the Patio Andaluz Hotel

 

Tuesday, 31 May: Quito - Home

Breakfast. Early transfer to the airport for your flight home.

 

 

 

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